The City of Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Gardens
Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered train arrives at a spray-painted stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds form.
This is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with round purplish berries on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above the city town centre.
"I've seen people concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who make vintage from four hidden urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and community plots throughout the city. The project is too clandestine to have an formal title so far, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.
City Vineyards Across the World
To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which features more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of the French capital's historic artistic district neighbourhood and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them throughout the world, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens help urban areas remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces protect land from development by establishing permanent, productive agricultural units within cities," explains the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a result of the soils the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, community, landscape and heritage of a urban center," notes the president.
Unknown Eastern European Grapes
Back in the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he grew from a cutting left in his allotment by a Polish family. If the rain comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast once more. "This is the enigmatic Polish grape," he says, as he cleans damaged and rotten grapes from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Activities Across Bristol
The other members of the group are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of wine from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty plants. "I love the aroma of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a basket of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the car windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has previously survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from the soil."
Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated over 150 plants perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can make interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually make quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an traditional method of making wine."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various natural microorganisms are released from the skins into the juice," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and then add a lab-grown yeast."
Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions
A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to plant her grapevines, has assembled his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on regular visits to France. However it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"My goal was creating Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable local weather is not the sole challenge faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to install a fence on